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Blog EntryJan 6, '09 11:12 AM
by frenzb9782 for everyone
Aemilia's interior is in need for revarnishing. Now most of the interior's woodwork of the Ballad is made of pretty thin veneer, which I don't want to destroy! However to do it right it should I gues I should start with a bare wood sufface. Has anybody any usefull sugestions how to do this right? Also I want a satin interior finish in the end (so no high gloss!). Which varnish should I use?
Any suggestions from fellow Ballad owners would be appreciated. Many thanks!

Frans
Aemilia 3 - Ballad 978

msn-319anne1 wrote on Jan 6, '09

hello frans,

 

First I recommend to sand the wood
with sandingpaper as light as possible, you can varnish the
interior with a good varnish like "sikkens interior varnish" in several
layers.

when the wood is ready to replaced, then you can
get nice mahogany or teak veneer replacement woodwork (same as used
in the ballad) at the "arnhemse fijnhouthandel" in your
country.  

 

kind regards

anne k.

ballad 319

 

 

 

 

 
msn-aballport wrote on Jan 6, '09
Frans,
I have had good results with the interior wood work by sanding not necessarily to bare wood but well enough to freshen discolored wood and remove peeling finish. Then I stain with Interlux #42 Brown Mahogany wood stain and apply three or more coats of Interlux #60 Goldspar satin varnish. There are many ways to go about this but this has worked for me.
 
Tony
Pleiades #191
msn-ladyb101 wrote on Jan 6, '09
Hey Frans,
 
I did the same during my renewal of the Lady B. I removed all the old varnish using an electrical blower, using a paintscraper. I decided to paint the bulkheads off white, in order to create a more spacious feeling. See pictures.
The varnish I used was Epifanes rubbed effect varnish ("eiglans blank"). For the white paint I used a hand mixed good quality exterior paint.
Other blank parts were coated with wooden-floor varnish on a PU basis, also egg effect.( Glitsa).
If you wish more information so let me know.
 
Regards,
 
Frank
LADY B
Ballad 101


Attachment: P4060121compressed.JPG
msn-cracklinrosie07 wrote on Jan 6, '09
This may be an alternative to varnishing: Cracklin' Rosie's woodwork looked a bit faded and damaged in parts where leaks had come through. Rather than revarnishing the entire saloon we used "briwax" a professional wax in antique mahogony stain (they come in all sorts of stained woods including several teak versions). After about three or four coats of the wax and a lot of elbow grease we got a soft sheen (much less gloss than varnish) and also it brought out the wood grain quite nicely. We now wax once or twice a year to get a nice patina build. We need to start again where we have some water damage this season but much more manageable than varnish...
msn-patentnick1 wrote on Jan 7, '09
Just to add my two cents' worth to the varnishing issue:  
 
A few years back I stripped all the old varnish from the entire interior by applying a vanish-removing gel.  It came off easily and after lightly sanding the bare wood I apllied four coats of Epifanes Rapidclear, a satin varnish that needs no sanding between coats. I use this varnish for both exterior and interior surfaces and it holds very well in the very unforgiving sunlight we have in Greece. However, on the lower part of the bulkheads which are hidden by the bunk tops, I applied clear epoxy resin instead of varnish, in order to seal the wood for good.  On most Ballads I've seen, these are the parts that tend to remain moist and rot.  
 
I considered doing what Frank did but didn't have the nerve. After seeing his photos, I have to admit that it looks great. Apart from brightening up the interior, they are easier to maintain. Also the off-white contrasts very nicely with the wood trim.  Well done, Frank.
 
Nicholas
Moments of Clarity #334
msn-vcjones wrote on Jan 7, '09
On Lyric, I took the easy way out, and did not take off all the previous varnish. I had bad luck on one of the drawers, and decided not to try it on the bulkheads.  There was no sheen on the bulkheads or other woodwork anyway, and the stain had faded so much that I didn't think that it was necessary.  I lightly sanded with very fine bronze wool (don't use steel), and then applied a mixture of 1/3 mahogany stain and 2/3 tung oil.  This approach needs to be repeated every year or so, however.

I really, really liked Nicholas' idea about covering the parts you can't see with epoxy resin.  I don't think I would go down to bare wood in that case either, unless there was a highly glossy varnish on it. I would just use a penetrating epoxy (of course, trying this approach in a small area first to ensure good penetration and curing).

Cathi Jones



----- Original Message ----
From: Patentnick1
To: Albin-Ballad
Sent: Wednesday, January 7, 2009 6:16:00 AM
Subject: Re: Varnishing the interior

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New Message on Albin-Ballad

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From: Patentnick1
Message 6 in Discussion

Just to add my two cents' worth to the varnishing issue:    A few years back I stripped all the old varnish from the entire interior by applying a vanish-removing gel.  It came off easily and after lightly sanding the bare wood I apllied four coats of Epifanes Rapidclear, a satin varnish that needs no sanding between coats. I use this varnish for both exterior and interior surfaces and it holds very well in the very unforgiving sunlight we have in Greece. However, on the lower part of the bulkheads which are hidden by the bunk tops, I applied clear epoxy resin instead of varnish, in order to seal the wood for good.  On most Ballads I've seen, these are the parts that tend to remain moist and rot.    I considered doing what Frank did but didn't have the nerve. After seeing his photos, I have to admit that it looks great. Apart from brightening up the interior, they are easier to maintain. Also the off-white contrasts very nicely with the wood
trim.  Well done, Frank.  Nicholas Moments of Clarity #334

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