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VideoNov 19, '11 5:52 PM
by Nico for everyone
First start of our Sole Mini



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After our Volvo Penta Md7a doesn`t work anymore, we decided to insert a Sole Mini. It was a lot of work, because everything else has to be new also. We do all the work by ourself, so it took a bit longer, but now we know every part of the Engine and the Engine Compartment very well.
If you want further Information, have a look at our Website www.TamTam-Sailing.de, or feel free to send us an Email.

Blog EntryApr 18, '11 6:46 AM
by Colin for everyone
I wonder if anyone has any data on the Volvo Penta MD7a control panel alarm unit?

Trying to trace another fault, I now can't get one of the lights and the Sonalert buzzer unit to sound on turning the ignition key.

If anyone has any experience of generic alterantives to (expensive) VP original equipment, I'd be interested to learn details.

Blog EntryApr 14, '11 7:38 PM
by robert for everyone

Hi,

Does anyone know what the insulation on the original Ballad rigid exaust system was composed of?  I can't tell if it is asbestos or something else, and want to dispose of it safely.

Thanks,

Bob J


Blog EntryNov 25, '09 8:14 AM
by Cameron for everyone

Dear Balladeers,

We are looking at replacing our fixed 3 bladed 13x9 prop with a two blade folding prop, firstly to go faster under sail, and secondly as the current selection seems underpropped.

We have a Betamarine 20hp with 2:1 reduction on the gearbox.  Max engine revs are 3600 in theory, but we can easily reach that with the current prop, and to get to hull speed needs almost full revs.

I have looked at lots of info about folding props and feathering props, and was hoping that someone had some experience to share.  I notice that looking through the old MSN system, Aemilia, hull 978, had the same choice but there was no follow up about whether the choice was successful.

We are considering Flexofold (expensive), Gori (early design), Radice (cheap but look a bit primitive) and Varifold (made in UK so less penalty from weak sterling).

There have been a number of articles and test of varying rigorousness, and a two bladed flexofold comes out well. 

I have done some preliminary contacts, and most suppliers seem to suggest a 14" diameter.  Gori suggested a 14x11.5, but suggested a 14x9.5 for Aemilia with an identical engine and gearbox, and recommended a 16x10 to Josin (although with a higher gearbox reduction ratio of 2.3:1).  This concerns me a lot, as they are very expensive for a bit of cast bronze, and I dont want to have to buy two if I make a mistake.

A quick spreadsheet calculation, using the 50% slippage quoted by Josin, suggests that you need at least 11" pitch to get 6.5knots at less than 3000 engine revs/ 1500 shaft revs.

Any comments would be much appreciated.

Cameron, Cracklin Rosie #73 


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Blog EntryMay 2, '09 1:11 PM
by Jesper for everyone

Hi everybody!

I'm reinstalling my Windows on a new hard disk, and finding my pictures in different hiding places. I found the pictures of the Yanmar installation. The engine in the pictures is the 2YM15.  The extra 10 cm space on the shaft should make room even for the 3ym20 engine, since the three cylinder is 10 cm longer than the two cylinder engine.

 


Blog EntryJan 25, '09 12:43 PM
by Colin for everyone
Has anyone got a compatible shaft for an MD7a?

The nuts on the turrets became lose on my engine this season and the shaft got broken.

Blog EntryOct 24, '08 9:20 AM
by netram70 for everyone
Hi,
When ovehauling this season I was about to exchange the freshwater in the engine and doing this I broke of the drainage cock's joint in the engine (see the red circle in the picture) leaving just the threaded part remaining in the engine block.
Since the cocks joint to the engine is at an downward angle and quite close to the motor bed anyone with a Ballad can tell there is little room for work.
 
If not being able to getting the joint threads out, I got the advice from the local tech. just plugging the hole (in the joint) with wood or filling it up with Sika... and then forgetting about it til the engine are to be replaced...
 
Has anyone else on the forum any good advice on how to fix this?
 
Thanks in advance
/M책rten
 
 
 
 
 
 

Blog EntrySep 1, '08 10:32 PM
by bobj500 for everyone
Hi Everyone,
Thanks to everyone who responded to my earlier email on repowering with a Beta Marine diesel.  We have decided to go with the 16 hp model.  Now we need to buy a new right hand propeller and want to make sure I get something that will fit the existing propeller shaft before I place the order.  We are going to go with a 3 blade 13 inch 8 pitch prop on the engine vendors recommendation..  Does anyone know the dimensions of the original shaft such as taper, lenght of taper, small end diameter, and keyway width and depth?  Also can anyone suggest a supplier in the U.S. that they have had good luck with on this kind of purchase?
Thanks,
Bob Jenkins
 

Blog EntryMar 23, '08 5:27 PM
by b1144 for everyone
Dear Ballad-friends,

As you all know the dieseltank of a Ballad is rather small (33liters). I know I have a sailboat but each year I make about 150 till 200 hundred enginehours. The place of the tank does not cost much space, so from that point of view it is okay. However the position is horizontal , that means there is a risk if you go below the level of 10 liters, to draw some air in your engine. Question: is there anybody who made an extra fueltank, for instance in connection with the original fueltank or do we all cope with filling up our tank out of some extra jerrycans?

Gerard
"Mallejan" #1144

Blog EntryFeb 9, '08 1:32 PM
by puredrop5 for everyone
The rheostat/float from my fuel sensor - made by VDO- serial no 81/9/1 - 2/72
is faulty - the coil in the rheostat has degraded. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement ?
 
Mark Bennett
CIAO Ballad 44

Blog EntryFeb 7, '08 9:21 AM
by michaelwilhelm2 for everyone
Dear Ballad Friends, is onyone experienced with the installation of a Volvo Penta D1-13? Is it strong enough for our ballads?
 
Kind regards
 
Michael

Blog EntryDec 29, '07 8:56 PM
by bengt-h-t for everyone
Ballad Alliance 1258
Attachment: Engineinst.-1.JPG

Blog EntryDec 29, '07 8:22 PM
by bengt-h-t for everyone
Since the original engine VP MD6-B worked well for so long time - 30 years (and still works in an other boat) i decided to chose a VP engine for the next 30 years too. 
This is the result of my repowering with  VP D1-20B/MS10L -18hk 3-cyl  (2007)
It was not easy to fit the engine under the original hood but after measuring and some small adaptation on the engine and enginebed it succeeded at last. I wanted a flexible coupling and a new type of propellershaftseal compared with the original seal.
I found a waterlubricated stern shaft seal manufactured by ManeCraft and a coupling from Centaflex wich i think look very good. I also moved the 2 batteries to the rear portside bunk, and prepared for one further batteri.. If anyone is interested there are lot of drawings and technical documents from this projekt, unfortunately only in swedish language.
Best Regards - Ballad Alliance 1258
Attachment: 3-wayValve-drain exhaustsystem.JPG

Blog EntryNov 1, '07 1:29 PM
by jonah1221 for everyone
Good Morning Everyone,
                                       My MD7A  raw water pump has been thowing water everywhere from the drain holes,(no Problem),When I removed ! it I found that it was a Johnson with no bolt flanges atall, just held in with one small piece of bronze and the remains of the previous pump.I shall be in Europe,(Switzerland ),next week .Does anyone know wher I can Purchase a NEW pump.? Thanks in advance.1221

Hello, Ballad friends,

can anyone tell me the best way to get the diesel out of the tank?

Thanks for your recommendation.

Michael

Blog EntryOct 9, '07 2:53 AM
by jonah1221 for everyone
Can anyone shed some light on the following problem and where it begins? There is a fibreglass hump situated half way beetween the shaft seal and the shaft exit.it  is seeping water and  looks very sick.Is there a fastening to stop the shaft bearing turning or?  you have agreat sight Many Thanks

Blog EntryOct 5, '07 4:49 PM
by patentnick1 for everyone

Hi to all:

 

After five months on the hard, Moments of Clarity has finally been epoxied and anti-fouled.  Since I won’t be taking her out of the water next year, I decided to change the Volvo shaft seal (it had about a year of service life left) along with the cutlass bearing, which had never been changed during my 6-year ownership. When I grabbed the propeller and gave the shaft a shake there was indeed some play. Fortunately, the P-bracket on my Ballad is in two pieces, so I simply unbolted the lower half and took it home to have the bearing removed.  The rubber splines almost came away in my hands, indicating that renewal had long been overdue. But after removing the set screws, heating with a torch and beating with a mallet (and a small sledge), the bearing body still wouldn’t budge. To avoid damaging the bracket along with my neighbours’ hearing, I took it to a friend who had access to a lathe and ground away the body in about 20 minutes. A new bearing was inserted and, two hours later, the bracket, along with the shaft, shaft seal and gearbox coupling were back on the boat.  The moral of the story is that you should check the condition of your cutlass bearing when you haul out. If there’s more than minimal play on the shaft, it should be replaced. If it has been replaced recently but it appears worn, then the engine probably needs re-alignment. It’s a bit of a pain but it can extend the life of your packing box or shaft seal, not to mention the gearbox’s. (I haven't included photos of the Volvo shaft seal since Jesper has already done that in the past.) 

 

-Nicholas

 

Damaged splines

 

 

 

New bearing from Vetus (20 euros) and P-bracket

 

 

Old bearing being ground out

 
 
All assembled. As you notice, having the P-bracket in two pieces is very
convenient.  The hole on the top part is for a circular anode. Now that I've
also installed a hull anode, the P-bracket will be wired to that.


Blog EntryAug 9, '07 4:16 PM
by crosie for everyone
Our Albin Ballad still has its original MD6 Volvo inboard, but it has not been behaving very well recently, and it may be necessary to remove the engine for a rebuild.  The cost will be significant, so my mind has turned to spending a little (or a lot) more to replace it with a more modern Volvo diesel.
 
It would be an opportunity to get away from the noise and grief of a diesel inboard, and replace the system with an electric motor and battery bank, although I accept that this may have an equal level of hassle.
 
I have done some preliminary research into powering cruising yachts with electric motors, and there are a few companies in Europe (and also USA) who can supply conversion kits and motors which are the equivalent of inboards up to around 30hp. The motor can often fit directly to the prop shaft, with or without a reduction gearbox.
 
Has anybody any experience of doing this themselves, either good or bad?
 
I would appreciate any comments.
 
Kind regards,
 
Cameron Hunt
Cracklin Rosie, Ballad #73

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