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Blog EntryMay 6, '11 6:12 AM
by tim for everyone
hello
while on its mooring my pushpit was badly damaged and i need a new one!
does anyone have a template? or can offer an suggestions for fabrication?
or know of a spare parts shop?
yours
tim

Photo AlbumInner forestayApr 13, '11 5:14 AM
by Nicholas for everyone
ddd
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Hi Torleiv:

There’re at least a couple of ways to go about installing an inner forestay. If you want the inner forestay to be well clear of—and run parallel to—the main forestay you will have to find the strongest point along the fore-aft axis of the foredeck and then determine the position of the mast attachment. This method will most likely involve installing running backstays. If you go along this route, the ideal location of the deck attachment on the Ballad would be right above the anchor locker bulkhead. This will allow you to run a chain plate to the bulkhead and have a really solid structure. BUT, it also means that you’d have to remove the bow cleat and move it fore or aft (or install side cleats) and, more importantly, get rid of the flimsy bulkhead and laminate in place one made of 18-20mm plywood. I followed a different path which was pre-determined by a mast attachment that I had installed when I’d taken the mast down several years ago. This attachment was high enough up the mast so that no running backstays were required. In order for the inner forestay to run parallel to the main forestay, the deck attachment for the former had to be about 35cm aft of the latter. The stainless-steel plate below deck runs from side to side but isn’t through-bolted to the toe rail. It was loosely based on a similar attachment I’d seen on a Jeanneau on the internet. A year or so later, I welded two tangs on the plate that would allow me to run a rigging screw to a strong point on the inside of the bow. I’m pretty sure it’s strong enough, although I haven’t used it in real anger—just up to force 6. Another thing you’d have to decide is what device you’d use for tightening the forestay. I’ve made a wheel adjuster from a rigging screw inserted into an industrial wheel. A pelican hook is attached to one end and the forestay eye to the other. When tightening, you’d have to hold the upper part steady to prevent it from turning, otherwise you’d also be twisting the wire. Once tight, then you insert a pair of cotter pins to secure it. (It works but it’s a bit of a hassle, so if you can spare the money, buy a proper adjuster made by Wichard, Nemo, etc.) When not in use, the whole contraption is stored below deck, while the forestay is secured with a small block and tackle somewhere on the toe rail. All in all, I’m happy that I’ve installed an inner forestay. It allows you to run two genoas wing-on-wing plus use it for a working jib or storm jib. I’ve attached several photos which will hopefully be helpful. Unfortunately, I can't upload a word document with a drawing which will help you determine the location of the forestay mast attachment if you don’t want to install running backstays. Send an e-mail to nicholas@thesyndicate.gr and I'll forward it to you.

Nicholas
Moments of Clarity #334

Photo AlbumPacific Seacraft rudder designJan 25, '11 11:39 AM
by Nicholas for everyone

Blog EntryJan 25, '11 10:09 AM
by Frans for everyone

Dear fellow Ballad sailors.

When I had Aemilia III hauled out two months ago, I noted quite some water was leaking out of my rudder. I  once read somnewhere that the rudderblades of the Ballad are hollow and that they are a known weaker point of the Ballad.  I am now thinking how I  could improve strengh of the rudderblade, since it's worrying me a bit.

Are there other Ballads with this problem around? If so, please share your experience what you've done about it.

Many thanks for your help.

Frans, Aemilia III


Photo AlbumSwim ladderDec 28, '10 4:35 PM
by Torleiv for everyone

Photo AlbumTwo-tone deckSep 13, '10 8:15 AM
by Nicholas for everyone

Blog EntryJan 21, '10 3:32 AM
by Janie for everyone
One of our windows must be replaced (hull #111) and probably the rest as well.  Is it possible to find the original windows anywhere?
Thanks, Janie

Blog EntryDec 29, '09 3:08 PM
by bram for everyone
I posted this a few weeks ago and was requested to enclose some photos. I have a close up of the hole where the water is coming from, as well as the location in the boat. I hope this clarifies it.

Looking forward to your reactions


The original message is below

Dear Ballad-exchange members

For about a year now, my Ballad #173 has a leakage through the wire hole in the port cupboard above the navigation unit. Obviously the first thing to check and change was the genua rail, which is in this area. This was dry and was fitted back properly. After that I checked and filled all holes of the rain cover as well as the top fitting above the sliding door. I also checked the windows with a bucket, but these seem fine.

The problem with these kind of leaks that it can leak in the front, but due to the sandwich system it comes out a complete different spot. Does anyone have similar experiences and can advise me where I should look next?

Your help will be appreciated.

Bram

Blog EntryNov 28, '09 10:34 AM
by bram for everyone
Dear Ballad-exchange members

For about a year now, my Ballad #173 has a leakage through the wire hole in the port cupboard above the navigation unit. Obviously the first thing to check and change was the genua rail, which is in this area. This was dry and was fitted back properly. After that I checked and filled all holes of the rain cover as well as the top fitting above the sliding door. I also checked the windows with a bucket, but these seem fine.

The problem with these kind of leaks that it can leak in the front, but due to the sandwich system it comes out a complete different spot. Does anyone have similar experiences and can advise me where I should look next?

Your help will be appreciated.

Bram

Blog EntryApr 16, '09 8:52 PM
by Tony for everyone

My Ballad did not come with a folding boarding ladder on the transom as some Ballads do, so I made my own. It is highly customized to fit one place only on the starboard quarter. Marine plywood sides provide strength to hook over the toe rail and mahogany makes up the treads and the fold down section for swimming. It is sized to fit easily in the cockpit locker. I can provide patterns or finished ladders to anyone interested.

Tony Allport

Pleiades #191

 

 


Blog EntryNov 14, '08 8:45 AM
by Jesper for everyone
The issue of the Ballad having a list to starboard (permanent leaning or healing to starboard, when not sailing) (Thanks to Markus for introducing the right english word) has been mentioned in different discussions on other issues. I therefor open this new discussion for the specific issue of list.
 
Our Ballad has the starboard List too. I never thought it was so strange since most installations are found to starboard. Toilet with tank, main electrical cable and diesel tank, but maybe its true what Markus (Vagabond Dreamer) writes, that these installations are not enough to cause the list. And Ulrik is rigth too, it would be interesting to see if the Ballad has a list without the mast on. As far as I remember it does.
 
Personally I would like to know how much weight it would take on the side deck, to remove the list, and this is something we all could experiment with. Just bring friends or family to the marina, have them get on board and stand on the port side deck untill the list is gone, and ask them their weight. (Don't involve wifes and mothers).
 
We put everything heavy to port. Even the autopilot (tiller pilot) was installed to port, even though it is set up from the factory to be used to starboard. Drinking water in bottles is kept behind the port backrest. Heater is installed to port. Anchor and chain is moved ahead, and is now in the center. One of the 4 batteries is positioned a little to port, the other three are centered. But there is still a little list.
 
Jesper Milling

I need new lockers for yhe cockpit and have followed the discussion here about the quality of Lidköping's lockers. Martinssons say the can deliver three lockers and teak for the rest of the seating space for SEK 8000, whis would be almost SEK 2000 cheaper than Lidköping's offer. Anyone tried Martinsson? I wonder how they solve the leakage issue.
/Mats Davidsson
J철nk철ping, SE

Blog EntryOct 13, '08 11:36 PM
by trentmoraitis for everyone
I was winterizing our boat and removed all the water from the 3 bilge compartments. In the aftermost space on the port side there is what appears to be a metal drain fitting about 1/2" in diameter. Does anyone else have this on their Ballad and also know where it leads to?

Blog EntryMay 12, '08 12:28 AM
by ballad775 for everyone
Hi,
 
Does anyone know where I can get a new stanchion, and stanchion base, please?
 
Unfortunately one of Gancia Girl's Stanchions has been damaged by a fishing boat which lost control whilst entering Pwllheli harbour.
 
 
 
The skipper of the fishing boat failed to notice that the flooding tide was pushing him into the pile moorings, until it was too late to avoid a collision with moored boats. The port quarter of his boat hit an Ohlson 35 before hitting Gancia Girl, causing some damage to the hull just below the toerail, and the stanchion.
 
A local boatyard will carry out repairs, but they don't know where they can find a stanchion to match, so if anyone knows of a source it would be a great help.
 
Thanks,
 
Tim

Blog EntryApr 8, '08 6:10 AM
by sophina_albinballad for everyone
Hi all!
 
I have had my Ballad for almost 2 years now, and I just love the boat more and more. When we were to buy it, we compared Ballad, Comfort 30 and Scampi, and looked at several boats of all 3 types. The Ballad was absolutely the best.
 
However, one thing that is commonly regarded as a "weak point" with the Ballad is the construction of the keel.  Bonded in ballast, with only a reinforced plastic to hold it. There is a pretty deep space below the cabin floor, until the actual ballast starts. The sides of that space is glasfibre reinforced polyester.  OK, the material is quite thick according to the handbook:
- Freeboard below waterline: 10 mm
- Keel transition: 25 mm   ( I assume this means the part above the actual ballast, and where it connects to the hull)
- Keel side: 6  mm
 
25 mm of GAP can take a lot of load.  But still I am interested to hear from anyone who have had accidential contact a sea rock at high speed?   It can happen in the rocky Swedish waters...  Is there any chance that the keep would "break loose" and leave a large gaping hole...  Nightmare indeed.  Or what happens if you hit a rock at, lets say, 5 knots.
 
We accidentially hit a rock while steaming slowly into a harbour last summer, at approximately 1.5 knots. Just a light touch and no damage what so ever.
 
Loking forward to answers
Best regards
Tommy
 
Ballad 1421, Sophina

Blog EntryJan 30, '08 9:17 AM
by patentnick1 for everyone
Hi to all:
 
If you've ever needed to use a midships spring but had no place to either tie a rope or pass a line through, then a pair of midships cleats or fairleads in the area just forward of the spinnaker track are the answer.  I chose fairleads since you can pass a rope through and control it from the cockpit.  Since I didn't want to drill new holes, I scouted all the local chandlers for a pair of fairleads whose distance between bolt centres would match those of the toe rail bolts.  Finally, I came across a stainless steel pair for 6 euros. I then removed the bolts, cleaned up the rust spots and inserted the fairleads with new countersunk bolts and a layer of Sikaflex bedding compound. After letting the bedding compound to cure for a day, I tightened the bolts and voila! 
 
-Nicholas
Moments of Clarity #334
 
                 
 
 
       
                 

Blog EntryOct 17, '07 10:26 PM
by imagine78 for everyone
I wrote the message last night but forgot to attach the photo so I will start again. My ballad has a leaking window and the seal needs replacing. I have tried to obtain a matching one in the UK but so far without success. Attached is a photograph of the seal section end on. It is 15mm from the base to the seal lip and 12mm wide. Is this seal orriginal to the Ballad? Is it still available? Can anyone suggest where I might be able to obtain a length of about 2.5 metres.
 
Thanks
 
Malcolm
Attachment: IMG_0146[1].JPG

Blog EntrySep 11, '07 9:13 AM
by patentnick1 for everyone
Hi to all:
 
I was tired of varnishing or oiling the teak wooden pieces that are part of the forward and aft cleats--I had even tried epoxy-coating them, without lasting results--so I thought that it'd be a lot more convenient to replace them with stainless steel pipes. Luckily, 40mm and 30mm stainless steel pipes perfectly fit the bases of the forward and aft cleats respectively, so I bought some offcuts and took them to my stainless steel specialist, who cut them to the same length of the original wood pieces, then filled and rounded off the edges. (The 30mm pipe which is for the aft cleats is a very tight fit, so I had to sand the inside of the four bases a little. The result may not be as pleasing to some eyes as the original but at least it's a step towards a lower-maintenace boat.
 
-Nicholas
Moments of Clarity #334
 

Blog EntrySep 10, '07 2:07 PM
by patentnick1 for everyone
Hi to all:
 
Does anyone out there have a hull anode on his/her boat? (It's usually the turtle-shaped zinc anode where you attach the bonding cable.) Most people attach the negative battery terminal to their engine block, but I understand it's better to then take another cable from that point to a hull anode.
 
-Nicholas
Moments of Clarity #334 

We bought the locker lids from http://www.lidkopingsbatsnickeri.se/ in the beginning of 2007, and after finding out (as described elsewhere) that the aft lid was not rectangular because the locker is not, it was easy enough to fit the lids, and they looked good.
 
However, the lids are now comming apart, and considering the very detailed complaints published recently in the club-magazine of the danish Ballad Club over the teak parts from Lidk철ping B책tsnickeri, it might be wise to wait little with ordering these parts.
 
The problem we have is best shown in this picture:
 
  
 
What you see is the underside of the lid and the plywood core coming apart from the teak sides. This corner of this particuar lid is the worst case I have, and the plywood will even "pump" a little if  press it with a finger.
 
The picture also shows my other main complaint over these lids from Lidk철ping. The rubber lip doesn't corner sharply enough. Because the corner is such a soft curve, water easily gets into the locker in every corner, mostly ofcourse in the furthes back corners where water accumulates when heeling. This rainy summer we had a lot of water dripping into the lockers.
 
I have just eamiled pictures of four corners and a smal (poor) video of the pumping action to Lidköping BÃ¥tsnickeri, and I will be back with more on this subject. The lids really look good, and the price was very reasonable. If in fact they are just too cheap, and only last 2 or 3 seasons, then they are too expensive. 

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