Dear All, We are considering changing our collection of hanked on cruising sails for a roller reefing system. It has really been a question of cost that has prevented us from doing it so far, as well as some half-formed idea of the purity of it. On a pleasant day it is a joy, but when it is rough it can be a pain to have to go on the foredeck to change sails to reef etc. There is also the issue of space, especially for longer term cruising. Currently we have one locker completely full of sails, and the cruising chute has to live in the saloon or on deck. I have read a bit on this website, and also on other sailing blogs, and there are some opinions that the boat will suffer in its pointing ability if we move to roller reefing. Having been lucky enough to meet a couple of Ballads (Arabesque and Shebeen) on our recent travels who gave us some thoughts on this, broadly positive. Does anyone have any experience of moving from hanks to roller reefing? Is the issue of pointing more to do with the cut of the sail, or the shape of the foil of the reefing system, than a fundamental aspect of the boat? Should we also go for a smaller sail than the No1 Genoa on the roller? Regards, Cameron, Cracklin Rosie, #73  | Hi Cameron,
If you can afford it, do it!
Ballad NOR 3092 was equipped with a Furlex 200 roller after a change of mast and rig. We were part in the discussion in BODA about allowing forestay profiles etc. and the result can be read on the BODA site.
The only point of sailing where the roller is inferior, (and you would be hard pressed to measure the difference) is when hard on the wind with the # 1 genoa inside the railings. The sail tack point is about 25 cm higher on the roller, therefore the sail will not 'sweep the foredeck', losing a very small slice of sail-catchment area..
The real and very significant advantage in my opinion is in sail handling and safety. Rolling in the sail is virtually instant and is done from the cockpit. (I'm therefore slightly envious of those with a roller main as well).
For general cruising therefore, I have a # 2 genoa on the roller, and the # 1 comes out of the locker about once a year. In my experience there are very few boats which can point higher than mine.
Re sails. My Elvstrøm Sobstad # 2 has padding in the luff, which means that even with a few turns of the roller to reduce sail area, the sail maintains a good aerodynamic shape. NB the # 2 is therefore a # 3 as well!
Your existing full-luff-length sail(s) will need to be shortened in the luff by the aforesaid 25 cm for the simplest modification, and maybe a new bolt-rope to suit the slot in the profile.
You can, for racing and the last little bit of performance maybe, remove the actual roller drum and fix the tack in the original deck fitting.
Good sailing!
Josin John
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 | Hi Cameron.
We hardly ever do any racing, and to us the rolling genoa is a must. We also make use of the original rolling main, which rolls down on to the boom. However I have often considered having extra padding inserted in the genoa to make it more flat when reefed. The first 2 or 3 revolutions work fine, and the sail is both reduced and flattened. But further rolling leaves the genoa a little more baggy than I like. I have considered adding a storm-jib to the wardrobe, mounted closer to the mast than the genoa, but haven't gotten so far yet, and now the boat is for sale. For a cruising couple I would say the rolling genoa results in longer, faster, safer and more comfortable cruises. Combined with a third reef in the main, it means we have never had to sail with too much sail.
I also have to admit I don't know any arguments for not choosing a rolling genoa. I am sure that some racing guys will know why a hanked on sail is better, but we would never use living space in our warm and cosy cabin for wet sails.
Jesper Milling. |
 | Thank for the comments.
For racing, epecially around the cans with frequent changes of direction, we always seem to have the wrong sail up, so there is a decision to be made whether to spend the time, and energy, to get on the foredeck and change it, or put up with it for a while. As we normally sail with just the two of us, we dont have a load of foredeck crew to pull it down and put another up one in rapid order. In fact it normally takes quite a few minutes to drop it to the deck, tie off the halyard, untie the sheets, disconnect the hanks, put it in a bag, drag it back to the locker, and then reverse the process. If it is rough, it takes even longer.
I suspect that any slight loss of pointing ability would be offset by the ability to quickly match the sail to the conditions. We would probably get a new sail, as our #1 and #2 are full of our homemade repairs, and may be too old. We could have the #3, #4 and storm jib altered to a bolt rope fitting to attach when we know it is going to blow a bit.
Cameron |
 | Hi Cameron:
I agree with all of John's and Jesper's comments. As mentioned, if you're really worried about performance, most drums can be taken apart for racing. I personally have a No. 3 Genoa permanently on the roller as there's either too much or too little wind in the Aegean. In case of the latter, I have a relatively heavy gennaker (almost like a Code sail). I usually hoist it from its bag but the local Facnor distributor promised me a great deal on a gennaker furling drum so I'll be trying that next week. People who've used it told me it works wonders. Also, if you go with a roller genoa it'd be nice (but not necessary) to have a detachable inner forestay. That way you can still use your hanked sails for some wing-on-wing sailing, plus have a way to use a storm-or-heavy-weather jib. Installing an inner forestay is not that difficult and I can send you some info on how I've done mine.
A final comment regarding forestay tension: normally, with hanked on sails, there's a rigging screw on the forestay. This, along with tightening the backstay (not hugely successful with masthead rigs) gives you good forestay tension. With a roller genny, this rigging screw is omitted. Hasselfors makes a rigging screw specially for furling applications and it's absolutely fantastic, as you can get the same tension you could with a normal forestay. I noticed quite a bit of difference in pointing ability after I installed mine. Don't be tempted to use a normal rigging screw though, as it can be accidentally loosened if the genoa unfurls uncontrollably in strong winds (even split pins have been severed). The one by Hasselfors has an internal adjustment, much like the tensioning wheels for backstays.
If you're set on roller furling, spend some time looking at different brands. There're differences between various designs and some can make life much easier than others--at a price, of course.
Happy sailing!
Nicholas
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 | baludick wrote on Jul 10, '09, edited on Jul 10, '09 Hi Cameron
I fitted a Furlex 200 to Balu (651) this winter and had a new suit of sails made for her by Chris Scanes of Sails and Canvas in Topsham. My old No.1 was quite good but the old main sail needed some expensive repairs. So I went for the whole hog!
The Furlex was quite easy to fit even with the mast up and has very good instructions (see their website). I kept the drum as low to the deck as possible with no extension plates. I have just fitted a second bow roller on the deck just aft of the Furlex drum to stop the anchor chain damaging the drum as the chain is pulled up. I saw this arrangement on a Contessa 32. Although the Furlex instructions allow you to calculate the luff length for the genoa, I did double checked it with a measuring tape so that Chris could make the new sail with the maximum luff length possible.
The new genoa is made of 6.4 oz. Contender Supercruise Dacron and cross-cut with a foam padded luff. The main is 7.4 oz also cross-cut, and has a full length top batten which I notice a lot of Ballads have. They are lovely, crisp and shiney!
The result is that I noticed at the UK Ballad Nationals in May, Balu was pointing higher and going to windward as well as any of the other 11 Ballads. We don't race Balu other than at the Nationals and usually trail the fleet as we don't have a spinnaker. This year, however, in very light winds we were second to the first winward mark in one race. We did end up last, I must confess!
With the new sails and Furlex, Balu is much better balanced and the tiller can be left for a few minutes before she alters course. She is pointing 5 degrees closer to the wind than before. The Furlex is a beautifully engineered piece of equipment and, in my mind, worth paying a bit extra for. Also, if you possibly can, buy a new genoa made for the job rather than cut an old one down. That way the sailmaker can get the maximum area in the Genoa. The few times I have reefed the Genoa it seems to set well and the tack-delay swivel on the Furlex helps to flatten it further. Also it is great not having to carry sail bags up to the fordeck and there is loads of room in the lockers now.
Best wishes
Dick |
 | b173 wrote on Jul 12, '09 Hi Cameron,
I have a Furlex 200 as well and it is very easy to operate and maintain. I don't have experience without it, so I can't comment on the difference, but I do have the luxury of two foresails, which are both padded, but 1 is the standard Genua 1 and the second is a Genua 2, but with the pads works well as a Genua 3 too as Jo mentioned above. In other words, go for it!
Bram
Ballad #173 |
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