Group's posts with tag: hull and deck
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Her kan du se billeder af hvordan jeg er ved at lave en ankerbr첩nd. I am making a room for our anchor, chain, and line, at the bow. I need someone to tell me the proper english word for such a locker, or room. I removed the original bulkhead just ahead of the berths, and natuarally I wil be replacing it with a new one, that has no opening. The new bulkhead will be glassed in. The Anchor locker will have a floor too, since I want the bottom of it to be above the water. The hole in the deck: The position og the old bulkhead, as well as that of the new one: The piece of the deck I cut out will serve as a door, or lid. Here is how I am restoring it for its new purpose: The strip of wood is prepared to replace a part of the construction that formerly contained a pipe for electrical wires that looks like this: Now the door has been glassed at the edges and looks like this: It will be sanded, filled, and painted. I may also add a little more glass. I ran out of rowing glass yesterday. I will post more pictures as I proceed, comments and questions are naturally welcome. Jesper "The deck is of a sandwich design, which varies somewhat throughout the years of manufacture. Some older yachts have suffered from delamination problems, poor adhesion between the construction materials. Such problems may alert the owners by a quirking sound when walking on deck. In practice, this problem is of no consequence but is easily remedied by injecting foam (c.f. the Swedish Ballad Club's "Practical Hints"unfortunately available in Swedish only)." Does anyone have experience to this repair. Some other sites advise injecting epoxy rather than foam. Has anyone rebedded their chain plates ? How did it work out ? Any tips would be apreciated.
Thanks Gary I have considered making a room for my anchor + chain in my Ballad. I would be happy if there were any one who had practical experience, any ideas or maybe a picture. I was thinking of closing the top room in the bow. Make a new hole for water refill. Perhaps making a clamp at each side instead of one in the middle. Using the cut-away deck as a lid. Make a drain hole.
Thanks
Jakob, S/Y Blue Bird
There's been a bit of inactivity in the Albin Ballad group so I'm taking this chance to post a new subject. Has anybody thought of increasing the diameter of the cockpit drains? Has anyone taken a wave right in the cockpit? Has the water drained quickly? If anyone has any ideas or has done any modifications, please post a note. Also, I'd like to know if anyone has thought of converting the space under the V-berth (where the water tank is) into a watertight compartment. Considering that, in case of impact with a partially submerged object, this is the area most likely to be damaged, it makes sense to isolate it. It shouldn't be too difficult a job and the water tank can remain in place. Happy sailing, Patentnick If you’ve ever wondered where to store a couple of easy-to-grab coiled lengths of rope, you may find this a neat idea. It simply involves mounting a couple of short poles made from 25mm tubing on the stern railing, on the port and starboard side. They’re solid enough for bracing, plus I’ve welded a ring on top of each so they can be used for cockpit tent support and/or mainsail halyard attachment when in port. The photo is self-explanatory. Sailing with dogs is fun, especially when the boat is healing and they slide around and can't find a place to be. Right? well the problem has a simple to solve: We have one in each side, because we have two dogs. But who wants ugly boxes like that permanent fitted? We don't, and so the mounting is done like this: Just make sure it is the end of the plank, and not the 20X20 mm aluminium L-bar that rests on the side of the cockpit. The two planks are joined using a hinge, but I forgot to take a picture of that. The dogs fit nicely in the boxes, and have larned to find rest also when the boat is healing. The planks should have been out of teak off course. Jesper After having spent the whole of last summer and part of the fall painting the deck, I want to touch on a really important subject: delamination. First, to my understanding, if delamination isn’t due to a manufacturing fault then the culprit is probably the owner. Most likely, it’s from water ingress through hardware that has not been properly fitted. (In my case, the previous owner hadn’t insulated the chain pipe after installing an anchor windlass and the deck core was exposed to both rain water and salt water. The same was true of the deck organisers.) Quite simply, you can't just drill the deck and forget it. Fixing delamination will be the subject of another story and, anyway, since prevention is the best cure, let’s see what we can all do to prevent it. When fitting new hardware such as deck cleats, jammers, clutches, padeyes, etc., it is essential to prevent the chance of water getting to the core. Insulating it with Sikaflex isn’t enough. An epoxy plug is a far better idea. It’s quite simple. First, drill oversized holes (for example, if the bolts are 10mm, drill a 12mm or 14mm hole). Second, with an old allen key or metal spike that's bent 90 degrees remove some of the core around the holes so that the diameter of the holes in the core is larger than the ones on the upper and lower skins of fiberglass. Third, with a drink straw, blow away any debris (if your deck has some delamination thereâll be plenty of rotted core particles) and tape the holes from the underside with very good quality tape. Then, mix some epoxy resin and pour it in the hole. Wipe any overflow immediately and let it cure, usually for 24 hours. You may also want to keep an eye on the underside to make sure no resin is leaking through the tape. Cured epoxy is extremely hard--which adds to the solidity of the mounted hardware--but is almost impossible to remove. Finally, drill through the cured epoxy with the right size drill bit and install your hardware making sure to apply some Sikaflex or other sealant on the hardware and/or bolts. In the attachment you'll find a simple drawing of a typical deck. I hope it's clear enough. It’s a well-known fact that every piece of equipment that’s subjected to above average loads should be through-bolted. If the protruding bolts/nuts/washers/plates are out of sight or covered by headlining the task is easier. However, in the case of the Ballad there is no headlining and the mass of bolts from deck organizers, rope clutches, coach roof winches, etc., are an ugly sight. The solution is surprisingly easy and elegant. It consists of making wooden plates from 9mm exterior-grade MDF, varnishing them with teak or mahogany colour tinted saturation varnish (2 coats) topping that with 3-4coats of your favourite yacht varnish. For the former, I use products by Sigma or Gori, but there are plenty of other manufacturers. For the later—and all the interior varnishing—I use Epifanes Rapidclear as it is easy to apply and has a semi-gloss finish rather than high gloss. There’re two reasons for choosing MDF: First, it’s far cheaper than teak or mahogany. Second, it has twice the density of plywood and is ideal for compression loads. Yes, MDF may not be a typical marine-grade wood but since it won’t be exposed to the elements that isn’t an issue. Also, with a total of 5-6 coats of varnish it will be well protected. (I’ve had MDF base plates for the rope clutches under the sprayhood and there wasn’t a sign of deterioration when I removed them nearly three years later.) Finally, depending of the loads, you may use large washers or solid stainless steel backing plates. Whichever you choose, the cold appearance of steel against the rich warmth of the tinted wood gives a very nice effect. In the photos included there is a side-by-side comparison of untreated MDF and MDF after the above treatment, plus various applications around the boat. I want to know if any Ballad owner has given thought to converting the space under the forward V-berth (up to the first half-bulkhead, just before the batteries) into a watertight compartment. Considering that, in case of impact with a partially submerged object, this is the area most likely to be damaged, it makes sense to isolate it. It shouldn't be too difficult a job and the water tank can remain in place. (Is this a bit over the top or have I been reading too many books by Steve & Linda Dashew?) Also, has anybody managed to find a better location for the service battery(ies)? I've moved the starter battery right next to the engine and I wouldn't mind if I could find a better location for the the two service batteries that would replace the single one placed under the forward berths. Thanks, Nicholas S/V Moments of Clarity I made this Bathing platform out of a rather thick piece of plywood. I had to bend one flap of the hinges to make it work for this purpose. The plywood was oiled but needs a new coat. It's a whole lot nicer to stand on than the upper step of the bathing ladder. It folds up with the ladder, and has to be folded out since it is not conected to the ladder. The platform rests on the top of the ladder when folded out. I also had to move the heater outlet (the chimney) up, so that it wouldn't burn the platform when the heater is on. I still have the fiberglass piece from the new hole, and it will be inserted one day in the old hole to make an invisable repair. | |
