Group's posts with tag: hull and deck
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Hi to all, On my Ballad Mallejan I use a 10kg Delta anchor with 10 meters 8mm chain and 35 meters 14mm rope. The anchor is permanently on the bow and the rest of the gear is in an anchorwell. I want to buy an electric windlass in combination with 40 meters chain. If I follow some brochures I need 8mm chain. This will result in 64 kg at the bow. The alternative is 6mm chain. The weigth will than reduce till about 30 kg. If I look in some catalogs I see different numbers for SWL ( safe work load). of 6mm chain. Some speak about 400kg , another speaks of 900kg. The catalog of Plastimo gives the same numbers for galvanized and stainless 6mm chain. Both values are 400kg. Is there someone who has experience with anchoring with just chain on a Ballad. Gerard Hi to all: Next week "Moments of Clarity" will be taken out of the water for a couple of months and this time I'll be replacing all the thru-hulls and seacocks. I've gathered a lot of info over the net and, apparently, the proper way to do it is to buy seacocks that can be thru-bolted to the hull or at least screwed onto a plywood backing plate. That way the seacock itself can never be unscrewed by accident and the whole structure is more solid. The most common practice though--which is also the case with my boat--is to screw an in-line ball valve on the thru-hull which you have previously (and preferably) tightened on a backing pad. Has anybody gone through the process and what is your experience? -Nicholas Moments of Clarity #334 Hej Hvordan kommer man til at skifte sin st챈vner첩rs pakning, og skifte olie p책 gearet. Kan der fjernes noget s책 man kan komme til motorens bagside ?? Venlig Hilsen John Hansen # 1022
Hi,
I'm thinking of cleaning off the bottom of "Gancia Girl" and applying Coppercoat. http://www.coppercoat.co.uk/
This is an epoxy based copper coating which, the manufacturers claim, will keep the hull clear of fouling for at least 10 years! All that is needed is a wash off once a year to keep the bottom as clean as if you had been applying a fresh coat of antifoul every spring.
I would like to know if anyone on this forum has any experience of Coppercoat, either on their own boat or that of a friend. If you do have any experience does it, in your opinion, work as well as the manufacturers claim?
It will cost approx 짙400 for me to apply it myself, which at first sounds a bit expensive, but if the stuff is as good as claimed, it's a small price to pay for not having the loathsome task of having to apply fresh antifoul for at least the next ten years.
Thanks for any replies,
Tim
Has anybody got a source to match the gelcoat on the Ballad, try as i might i have not found a good match Does anybody know of a source of new stanchions for the Ballad as i have a couple of the tapered stanchions bent. Does anyone know what kind of sealant was used in the hull to deck joint on the Ballad? I need to reseal some of the bolts in this joint and would like to use the same stuff if possible. It looks like a light gray rubber compound that seems to stay sticky forever. I think it was also used to bed the genoa sheet tracks. Best Regards, Tony Allport Pleiades, #191 Hello, We are Dutch sailors and we want to buy a Albin Ballad. For us it is very practical if the mast can be striked down on the deck. Is there anyone who has some experience with this. We know that de deck construction is to weak for this and ther must be made a kind of strengthening on the deck. We want to know if this is possible. Or are there any other ideas? Bert Mertens, Holland Hello everyone! I'm planning to repair my foredeck by removing lower laminate layer from underside instead drilling holes and filling them with epoxy like Nicholas has done before. (Thanks Nicholas about documents which you mailed to me!!) I think, that injecting epoxy is also a reasonable way to solve this problem, but Cita's deck is otherwise so fine, that I don't have "heart" ( as we say here  ) drill holes to my fine deck.  My idea is to saw lower laminate carefully off (only at foredeck area!), change the core with same material and laminate the lower layer back. All this reastoration will done with epoxy, because it is strong and it don't shrink. Also I can be sure, that the core is dry. What do you think about this? I'm also grateful, if someone know about the structure at foredeck area? Is there some vertical glassfiber stiffeners or only a core material? regards, jere Shanty's mast collar is a mess. The powder coating has come away from the aluminium, and the metal is turning to a white mush. I'm going to strip it out this winter & try cleaning it up, but I think it may be too far gone. Does anyone know if it is possible to obtain a replacement mast collar anywhere? I saw a nice bow sprit/ anchor roller on a Ballad in Croatia this summer and would like to know who is custom making such a thing for Ballad. I'd like the anchor roller to handle my 35 lb CQR. Any info available? My new anti-skid deck is also finished. I basically masked and sanded down about 70% of the old moulded anti-skid pattern, brushed on two coats of Hempel epoxy primer and followed it with three coats of Hempel 2-part polyurethane paint (the last two with anti-skid particles mixed in). The cream colour contrasts nicely with the oyster white and the anti-skid pattern is very effective yet kind to bare feet. I also decided to paint over the raw fiberglass area of the forward hatch and I think the result is very pleasing to the eye (photo enclosed). Nicholas "Moments of Clarity" #334 Hi, Folks-- First--thanks to all of you for the help in unstepping and rewiring the mast. For the upper shrouds, I decided to go with Hi-Mod fittings all around (1/4 wire by 7/16 pin). I had a lot of difficulty figuring out how to do the Hi-Mods at first--it turns out that the Loos wire I used was quite springy and I would just about get the wires into the star crown fitting when the crown would pop off and get lost somewhere. Finally got it though. The rig is going on this Thursday morning. Now, I have another problem. This is probably a simple question for those of you who have had the issue with replacing the mast foot. I haven't noticed any rust, so the good news is that I don't think I have that problem. However, when my mast was unstepped, my rigger did not realize that there was a clevis pin attaching the mast to the mast step. As the crane pulled up, so did the step. Not too much damage--just a couple of unseated and bent screws in the middle of the step. I am concerned about them though, especially concerned that moisture could leak down and compromise the mast step. I have tried to unscrew them a couple of times but they are wedged in there so tightly that I may have to cut off the heads and drill them out. Before I do that, though, I need to know (1) how long the screws are, (2) what size they are so that I can replace them, and (3) if there are any other recommendations. Thanks as always, Cathi Jones Lyric, Hull #205 The strut (aka P-bracket) that holds the propeller shaft on my ballad (El Tiburon #42) was recently sheared completely in half (A rope wrapped around my prop). Does anyone know of a good source for a replacement? Am I going to need to have one fabricated? Any advice? I doubt it's repairable. I saw a couple of other threads related to the subject here, and The easiest solution would probably be to drop in a replacement. If necessary, I have access to a pretty good machine shop, so I could probably get one fabricated. If I do that, should I use stainless steel? Aluminium?
Hopefully she'll be pulled out of the water soon and I can upload some pictures.
Thanks Jeremy The dreaded word "osmosis" has entered my Ballad vocabulary today. I am in the process of stripping down 844 under the waterline to give her an epoxy treatment. Today I uncovered osmosis on the foreside of the keel, in the join between the port and starboard halves of the hull, see pictures. The marine blue discolouring is the osmotic fluid. The osmosis occurs fore of the keel, too - about 30 cm. The nasty aspect of this osmosis is that there were no discernible blisters. Obviously there have been imperfections that have allowed water to seep through, but what I suspect is that the join between the hull halves enables the water penetrating the gelcoat to spread down the joint, giving rise to osmotic fluid but not causing blisters. I therefore recommend my fellow Balladers to c heck this area of the hull closely when hauling up. Charles Greetings all! I have a hurricane damaged stern rail. Too bent to repair or take accurate measurements from. Any of you fellow Ballad owners know where I can get the specs / measurements, or a company that I can order a new one from? Note of gratitude; Thank you Jesper for starting this site and to all other contributors. I found Ballad 834 and then in doing research, found this site. All of your knowledge and info made me realize how great the Ballad's are and after a couple hours of reading through the topics, I bought the boat. And am very glad I did! Thanks! Hi again: Now that "Moments of Clarity" is on the hard, I drilled two holes on the bottom of the rudder and had about two litres of seawater come out. I know many boat owners who have the same experience when they haul their boats out of the water. At some point, I know I have to take the rudder out and investigate (and replace the bearings too) but I'm not inclined to do so this year (the bearings are fine). Does anyone have any experience in this? Nicholas "Moments of Clarity" #334 Hi to all: "Moments of Clarity" was hauled out of the water last Thursday for routine maintenance (antifouling, etc.). This year, I've decided to get rid of all the old layers of antifouling and I'm experimenting with two antifouling removers (by International and Titan). They come in gel and liquid form respectively and require either a blunt scraper or high-pressured water to remove the dissolved layers. Does anyone have any experinece with antifouling removal? Nicholas "Moments of Clarity" #334 This entry summarizes correspondence under another topic on prices for sprayhoods and cockpit tents. I do not know if these prices include sales tax. Cockpit tent 5000 SEK Sprayhood SEK 2300 Plus shipping costs Hello The All: I have recently noticed a bulge on the underside of the foredeck on both sides of the very front of the cabin house. The laminate has separated from the core and is buckling downward as though it were in compression. I can press up on it and pump it like an oil can. I assume this must be some kind of stress point in the deck. Has anybody else experienced this? Kind Regards, Tony Allport Pleiades #191 Anderson Island, WA USA | |
