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Photo AlbumEberspächer D4 installationMay 10, '09 2:17 PM
by Jesper for everyone
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I found these pictures that have been missing in my posting on the same subject. I hope the pictures are self explanatory, otherwise please look up the original posting (where th epictures are missing) or post questions.

Jesper

Blog EntryFeb 2, '09 3:45 PM
by Torleiv for everyone

Hi

Anyone fitted a Reflex or similar diesel heater? I am thinking about doing so. Will be happy for any comment on the subject.

cheers

Torleiv


Blog EntryJan 6, '08 10:27 PM
by patentnick1 for everyone
Hi to all and Happy New Year:
 
Following are several photos of my recently-completed Webasto heater installation.  If you're considering a heater of this kind, it's probably better to read Jesper's account first as Eberspaecher and Webasto make very similar units. My account may be of interest to those who have a Ballad with a port locker and an aft-facing chart table.
 
 
This is the exhaust outlet.  The choice of location was limited by the fact that I have a swimming/ diving platform.
 
 
I chose to have a separate fuel tank for the heater.  This one holds 12 litres and is seen here wedged between an engine side panel and an L-shaped plywood piece which keeps it firmly in place.
Behind it, you can make out the fuel pump in a separate wooden box with a plexiglass cover and in the upper right-hand corner there's a plastic box that houses the electrical connections.
 
  
I mounted the unit in exactly the same way as Jesper did his, i.e using the toe rail bolts for support.  The exhaust pipe forms a loop before going over the aft bulkhead. Webasto recommends drilling a drain hole at the bottom of the loop to allow water to drain but I've yet to do this.  Also, the exhaust pipe isn't as thick as it's shown here.  However, as Jesper has already pointed out, the exhaust pipe needs to be insulated, so I inserted mine through a heat resistant silicon sleeve, wrapped it in rockwool insulation, then inserted the whole lot in flexible aluminium tubing. The need for insulation cannot be overstressed since the exhauxt pipe gets extremely hot and will readily melt or ignite whatever may come into contact with it.  Think of all the synthetic ropes, rubber fenders, engine oil, paints, thinners that we have on board--not to mention fiberglass itself--and you'll see why Jesper and myself are adamant about this.  The hose going straight out to the right of the photo is the warm air ducting which was also insulated since that too gets hot. 
 
 
Here you can clearly see the warm air ducting insulation being positioned by a friend. It's closed cell foam tubing which can be found in building supply stores by the brand names of Armaflex or Eurobatex.  This comes in a great variety of diametres and thicknessess.  Mine has a diameter of 63mm and a thickness of 19mm, which perfectly suits Webasto's 60mm ducting.  It's split length-wise, the ducting is inserted, then the slit is sealed with aluminum tape and the whole lot is inserted through flexible aluminium tubing.  In this case, the insulation helps to retain the air warm while, at the same time, protects nearby items from heat.  Without the insulation, the ducting gets very warm and would jeopardize the flexible water tank, as you'll see later.
 
         
The warm air ducting goes through a piece of rigid tubing before entering the living area.  This part of the boat is actually a small locker--seen here without the door-- where I store diving regulators, masks, fins and lifejackets so the rigid tubing offers extra protection, considering that the warm air ducting crushes easily.  The corrugated hose next to it houses the power supply cables.
 
 
                        
This is another part of rigid pipe which is at the foot of the chart table.  In the photo on the right you can see that the rigid tube terminates at the half-bulkhead.  The part of the wood which looks rough is where the navigator seat is mounted. The two plywood discs help to keep the tube firmly in place.  You can rest your foot on it without any problems.
 
 
            
The ducting goes through the bulkhead and under the saloon berth, terminating at a closeable outlet. It is also teed-off with another piece of ducting terminating at the main bulkhead. 
You can see the flexible 100-litre water tank which made the insulation necessary.  Another piece of rigid tubing helps to keep the ducting straight and above the tank.
 
 
Here is the second outlet that is non-closeable. When the main outlet is closed, a lot of warm air comes into the forecabin.  When the main outlet is open, the saloon is well heated while a breath of warm air also enters the forecabin.  Like Gerard mentioned, the unit fired up readily (it self-bled after 3-4 attempts) and brought the temperature to 21 degrees C in about 45 minutes with the exterior temperature  5-6C, the companionway wide open and just a little breeze blowing.

Blog EntryJan 23, '07 9:44 AM
by Jesper for everyone
Ebersp채cher D4 Maritime diesel heater installation.
This is not a detailed technical instruction, which you get included in the Ebersp채cher package. this is just an exampleof how it can be built into a Ballad.
 
I put the heater in the port cockpit locker, which dobbles as pilot berth, all the way aft, and as high as possible. I asked the local machine shop to cut and bend a suiteable "bracket" out of 2mm stainless steel plate. I bolted it on using the existing deck/hull assembly bolts.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The white thing around the black hot air pipe is a piece of plastic pipe, drain pipe, to protect from luggage. At first I only used drain pipe, but it meltes in 10 minutes. The black pipe is an extra heavy quality, which does not crush so easily. I then added the plastic pipe as extra protection on exposed positions.
 
  
 
 
Here the pipe divides. One branch goes backwards to the original outlet just out of the picture to the left. the other one is the original pipe going forward to the outlet under the hanger cabinet.
 
  
The pipe for the new extra outlet is protected with a plastic pipe.
 
 
This is the original piping going forward to the oulet you can se to the left of the white 220V power outlet, in the upper right corner.  I made holes in the pipe where it goes through the hanger locker, to have warm air dry the clothes in the locker.
 
 
 
 
Exhaust pipe (insulated), Combustion air intake pipe, fresh air intake pipe, Fuel pipe (in aprotective pipe). Below them all the protective pipe holdign the electrial wire for the fuel pump.
 
Having the heater in the pilot berth is not in every way perfest. The original haeter was way out at the transom, and that might turn out to have been a less noisy solution.
 
I will have to take a few more pictures, and maybe draw up a plan, to give a fuller impression of how I found room for everything. But questions are welcome.
 
Jesper Milling
 
 
 

Blog EntryJan 20, '07 7:26 PM
by roaringforties70 for everyone
Experiences in placing a gas heating? We have nearly decided to install a TRUMA E2400. Does anyone here has experiences with installing this or any other kind of heating?

We planned to install the E2400 below starboard berth directly at the main bulkhead. The should be passing the bulkhead going to a deck flue from TRUMA. Unfortunately this deck flue does not look like safe in regard to water intrusion.

Now I am thinking of placing the heater in the port locker with the heating outlet under navigator seat.(Yes, we do not have a quarter berth :-)) With this solution we have possibility to install a wall flue at the cockpit coaming (I hope the vocabulary is OK - I just tried LEO..)

I would be happy, if someone of you have some experience, advice or hint for us to get the ship a little more warm even without electricity at the harbour.


Best regards from the baltic sea/ Travem체nde
J철rg




Blog EntryJan 9, '07 6:10 PM
by larry's pal for everyone
I am considering adding Webastos or Ebenspacher in my Albin. I would like your experience with these htrs and recommendations concerning size you would recomend. My Albin is located at Galveston, TX area. Mild winters (low 30 degrees and high 50 degrees).

Thanks
Larry's Pal

Blog EntryFeb 1, '04 11:55 PM
by Jesper for everyone
My heater, the old Eberspaecher, has a drain at the bottom of the exhaust pipe allowing rain or seawater to run out of the pipe instead of flooding the heater. A very good thing since the exhaust pipe run upwards where it exits the boat. But the drain of the exhaust pipe just isn't connected to anything. The drain just lets the water run out into the boat, and naturally part of the exhaust fumes go the same way. Since the heater draws the air to be heated from inside the boat as well, the exhaust fumes are also drawn into the boat. So far I have not experienced any unpleasant odor or bad air in the cabbin, but it can't be a sound system. An Ebespaecher dealer told me that earlier the drain was fitted with a "pigtail". A looped pipe that should contain water in the loop, so that only water could pass. But the "pigtails" eventually filled up with stuff and closed, and were removed, with no problems, he said.
 
The only solution I see is a larger pipe connected to a valve in the bottom of the boat. 
 
What else can be done?   

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