I have just read Mark Bennets report on repowering with Yanmar 2YM15, and I see I could have saved me the excitement over the doabilty of it. Our local engine man has just done the same thing (repowered a Ballad with 2YN15) and I was somewhat excited if it would fit. In fact it fitted a lot easier than Mark has described, since they did not have to do a lot of GRP work to make room. I would even say you could probably fit a 3YM20 if you wanted the extra power, and smoother running. I took some pictures (of course) to share with you all, (I picked up my english in New Mexico) and here are the most interesting: This is the engine foundation. The 3 flat iron pieces were all they had to make, I find that to be a quite simple transformation. Another 3 had to be made for the port side as well of course. This was all they had to do to make room for the flat irons. A little hole in the pan for the one corner. In port side this was not necessary. If fitting a 3YM20 (the bigger three cylinder new Yanmar) you would have to make room for another 10 centimeters of the flat iron foundation. The extra cylinder in the Yanmar 3YM20, causes the engine, which is otherwise identical with the 2YM15, to be 10 centimeters longer. This picture was intended to show that there is space enough below the engine to have the gearbox moved 10 cm aft. This pictrue was intended to show that there is room for an engine that is 10 cm longer at the aft part. What you see is the shaft, and the Volvo rubber stuffing box (which is not a stuffing box, but serves the same purpose) The engine in the picture, or out of the picture to the right, is the two cyinder Yanmar 2YM15, could not be moved forward, due to engine casing. See next picure: I have been dreaming of repowering with the 3YM20, so I found this to be very interesting, but I'm not sure if we will actually one day spend the extra money for the larger engine. best regards Jesper Milling  |
Yes Jesper I agree,
I think the boatyard that did my fibreglass work realised that they could have
probably done it without cutting into the existing bearings after they had
finsished. There was a lack of understanding between the Yanmar
agent who installed the 2YM15 and the boatyard despite my attempts to
co-ordinate the job. They did however take the opportunity to encase large
hardwood bearers in the fibre glass to fix the plates to on which the engine is
mounted. In retrospect your way is simpler and cheaper. I am sure you will find
the 2YM15 provides ample power and perhaps keeps the engine installation closer
to thje original concept.
Mark
Bennett
CIAO- Ballad
44. |
 | I am in the process of re-enginging Ballad 1266 with a Yanmar 2YM15. I have ground down the starboard engine mount so that the new engine will fit. I hope to complete the entire re-engine work without hauling the boat. BTW--the Yanmar I bought came with a 1 inch output fitting, but it appears that the Yanmar fillting will match the Volvo fitting on my 25mm shaft allowing use of the existing shaft. saving me lots of money and grief. Hope to trail fit the engine this weekend. Jerry Martin Ballad 1266 Benicia CA USA |
 | Hi Jerry Sounds interesting that you are installing a new engine yourself. How did you lift the old one out, and the new one in? With a crane on the dock? one inch should be 25.4 millimeters, so please let us know how well the old 25 mm shaft connects to a one inch engine fitting. You wrote "grinding down" but all you did was to cut a little corner like shown on the photo posted earlier in this discussion, right? Did you check the shaft for wear? It might have sligthly reduced diameter where the lips of the seal has contact with the shaft. Not that I would know if it matters, and the professionals want to get us worried enough to buy new shafts and everything. Looking forward to hearing about your final result! Jesper Milling |
 | Hi Jesper & Jerry: As an owner whose boat was re-engined before I bought her, I'd like to add my few cents' worth . My current engine is a 3-cylinder, 25hp Sole diesel (based on a Mitsubishi block) and was installed in 1999. It has the same performance characteristics as other engines of more recent vintage, with max revs at 3600 and peak torque at 2500. I'm happy with it and it has proven to be totally trouble-free for the less than 500 hours it has run. However, on many occasions, I've felt that the engine is too powerful for the boat. When I take her to 2500rpm, I have water coming in through the cockpit drains so I back down to around 2000rpm which isn't ideal for her long-term health. My top cruising speed in flat water is 6,5 knots, which I'm sure I could attain with a 20hp engine. I can re-prop but that's another big exepnse. To me, 20hp would be ideal because a) there's enough power to install a really big alternator to take care of your charging needs and b) you can motor at 5-5,5 knots even with a lot of wind on the nose. (Also, as a side note, on my engine, the water pump and fuel filter are in the back which makes changing filters--and particularly impellers--a chore. I envy you because the models you're talking about have all service points in front.) So Jesper, yes, if you've been drooling over the 3YM20, go right ahead, it makes a lot of sense. My only advice would be to get the biggest alternator Yanmar offers. (I think they have an 80A as an option to the standard 60A). We don't like turning on our engines, but when we do we may as well make the most of them. The 2YM15, on the other hand, may lack a bit of power but has another advantage. The extra 10cm between gearbox coupling and stuffing box allows you to install a flexible coupling, which makes shaft alignment much easier, causes less vibration and is more forgiving if you catch something in the prop. -Nicholas Moments of Clarity #334 |
 | My 2 cents also: I repowered with a 13.5 HP Beta
Marine diesel (BTW, it's much quieter than the Yanmar
engine in the boat we chartered last week). Although
I love the new engine, I wish I had gotten the next
size engine up (a 16 HP in the Beta). My experience
is that the boat seems a bit underpowered. Cathi
Jones, Lyric, Hull #205
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The 15 b.h.p.
provided by the Yanmar 2YM15 is perfectly adequate in my Ballad "CIAO", water
comes in through the cockpit drains at about 3300 rpm so I throttle down to
2800 rpm and cruise at 5.5-6knots.Fuel consumption is more than the
original Volvo MD6A- about 2.5l per hour at 2800 rpm, it might be worth
putting in a larger fuel tank if possible.
Mark
Bennett |
| I pulled the old Volvo MD7A using my boom. I ran a line through a block attached to the boom with a sail tie through another block attached to the backstay attachment to my main winch. The main halyard supported the boom. With the engine out of the hatch, we were able to swing the engine over into a dock cart. I did remove the 62 pound flywheel before removal of the engine. I haven't had the time to work on the replacement due to work and a vacatiion cruise. I'll sent pics as I go.
Jerry Martin |
 | We also used our boom and main halyard to remove MD6A engine. Janie Duchess #111 |
| I find it very interesting that some of you removed the old engine yourselfs. Did someone put in a new engine by themself as well? If the whole operation could be done as a Do It Yourself project a lot of money can be saved. In denmark we have a dealer, in Kalundborg I believe, who will even deliever the Yanmars with adaption kits for Ballads, and modified instrument panel. This Jesper M. |
| Definitely not! In our case, we 'helped' the Engineer remove and install. However, he is a regular member of the crew  Janie |
 | We replaced our old engine with a brand new MD2020. The engine runs ok, free
of vibrations or any other kind of problems. We did it ourselves, me and my
brothher. We had to be very carefull with the prop shaft alignement once there
isn't much gap between the new shaft and the shaft sleeve in the hull.
By the way, our boat is n쨘 203 and it's in the Peniche harbour (Portugal
atlantic coast).
Jesper by mistake in the site map I have input 1203 instead of 203, how can
I correct it?
Cumprimentos
Mak
Citando Jesper_Milling :
Repowering Ballad with Yanmar 2YM15 and 3YM20
Reply
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| From:
Jesper_Milling |
I find it very interesting that some of you removed
the old engine yourselfs. Did someone put in a new engine by themself as well?
If the whole operation could be done as a Do It Yourself project a lot of
money can be saved.
In denmark we have a dealer, in Kalundborg I
believe, who will even deliever the Yanmars with adaption kits for Ballads, and
modified instrument panel.
This
Jesper M.
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in this category.
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| It is my intent to re-engine Alte Liebe using the same method which I removed the old Volvo MD7A. The goal is to completely re-engine without hauling. The good news for today is that the output coupling supplied by Yanmar ( 1"/25.4mm) exactly matches the coupling on my 25mm shaft. I will not have to buy a new coupling or shaft.
Jerry Martin
Alte Liebe #1266 |
| See attached pictures regarding lifting my Yanmar into Alte Liebe. The line runs from the engine to the boom to another block attached at the centerline of the backstay attachment to my main wench. I removed the teak to prevent additional gouging.. The other green line controls the location of the boom in the first part of the lift and later the location of the block over the entrance. It was a case of 2 steps forward and 1 back--the starboard plate was too narrow to accept the motor mounts. Was 50mm wide, needs to be 75-100mm (2in, 4in). As to your other questions, I did grind down the starboard side with a Dremel tool as there are electrial lines and my main bilge pump line there. I have not yet looked at the shaft, but my plan is to use it as is.
Jerry Martin
Alte Liebe #1266Attachment: Engine in 001.jpg |
| Hi Jerry - great pictures. They give me confidence I can do it my self too. Thanks for showing us that it is not such an impossible job. Jesper |
| It's in and it runs! I installed the new engine myself in the water--it was not difficult. As noted above, you have to make the engine mount adapter plates. I kept the 25mm shaft and flange which bolted up the Yanmar output flange. My costs (in US dollars) are
1) Yanmar 2MY15....$6677.08 (special boat show price) (2) Gori right hand blades...$753.53 (3) Engine mount plates and stainless steel bolts...$55 (4) Raw water coupling/hardware...$7 (5) Diesel hoses/clamps...$10 (6) New 8 foot gear shifter cable..$35.15 (7) Exaust hose/reducer/clamps..&75.00 (8) Total: $7606.76
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| Hi Jerry Congratulations! Did you just exchange the blades in your Gori propeller, and not the entire propeller? And did you do that while it was still in the water? Jesper Milling |
| I purchased new right hand blades for Gori, but thjey did not fix--several small differences. The Gori rep was in town for the boat show and stated that I did not have a Gori, but "a cheap Italian knock-off". The new Gori hub is on order and will soon arrive for my diver to install. I'll get more info on the old prop, and offer it on the Ballad site for sale as it's in great shape on should fit on any Volvo shaft.
Jerry Martin |
| Hi Jerry, Thanks! most interesting. Installing a new engine, does not have to be quite as expensive as is often heard. Thanks to tips, experiments and encouragement from Ballad Exchange writers. Jesper. |
| Almost complete except for a few minor items. The Yanmar package did not include a spot for the fuel guage or nav/steaming/spreader lights. I had a plastic part made to hold them--see attached jpegAttachment: ivy1266 002.jpg |
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