Group's posts with tag: engine
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Min motor en md6B vil ikke gÃ¥ op i omdregninger nÃ¥r jeg giver gas, den stÃ¥r mellem 2-10 minutter før den kommer er der nogle der har et godt rÃ¥d. hilsen Peter Nicholas has done it, and others have asked how to do it. I do not find it to be too smart, but here is how you remove the rear engine cover, if you think it쨈s in the way to much. - Remove the front engine cover, move it to the front of the cabin. It is fastened with 4 buckles (like belt buckles), or locks, two below at the front, on the sides, and two at the top, fastening it to the rear engine cover.
- Release the two (2) buckles sitting on the rear of the rear engine cover, one in each side.
- From the cabin, move the rear engine cover forward while tilting it forward, untill it is completely inside the cabin. Lift it out of the cabin.
I wouldn't remove it permanently though. I assume it protects us from odors, noise, and reduces a fire should it occur. And it protects the engine from the environment, and secures that the engine only receives fresh air from the outside, as long as the airhose is intact. I also have to get to the rearpart of the engine, every now and then. I don't find it too troublesome, and like the idea that the engine is enclosed. I pull the rear engine cover forward, from inside the cabin, as far as I need it, tilting it forward to lift the backside over the engine. works fine for me. Jesper A Volvo Penta MD 2020 B and its tribulations in an Albin Ballad 
John L. Cotton had some serious trouble with his Volvo Penta MD 2020 and went through a lot of work to have his trouble sorted out. Fortunately he wrote a very good article on the subject, that he sent to me a while back for publication here on Ballad Exchange. So please find attached to this posting one wordfile and 7 illustrating pictures, and a very good story! You may add questions to this posting, but John will have to answer them, since he is the author of the article. Thanks to John for his very interesting story - Jesper Milling. I have just read Mark Bennets report on repowering with Yanmar 2YM15, and I see I could have saved me the excitement over the doabilty of it. Our local engine man has just done the same thing (repowered a Ballad with 2YN15) and I was somewhat excited if it would fit. In fact it fitted a lot easier than Mark has described, since they did not have to do a lot of GRP work to make room. I would even say you could probably fit a 3YM20 if you wanted the extra power, and smoother running. I took some pictures (of course) to share with you all, (I picked up my english in New Mexico) and here are the most interesting: This is the engine foundation. The 3 flat iron pieces were all they had to make, I find that to be a quite simple transformation. Another 3 had to be made for the port side as well of course. This was all they had to do to make room for the flat irons. A little hole in the pan for the one corner. In port side this was not necessary. If fitting a 3YM20 (the bigger three cylinder new Yanmar) you would have to make room for another 10 centimeters of the flat iron foundation. The extra cylinder in the Yanmar 3YM20, causes the engine, which is otherwise identical with the 2YM15, to be 10 centimeters longer. This picture was intended to show that there is space enough below the engine to have the gearbox moved 10 cm aft. This pictrue was intended to show that there is room for an engine that is 10 cm longer at the aft part. What you see is the shaft, and the Volvo rubber stuffing box (which is not a stuffing box, but serves the same purpose) The engine in the picture, or out of the picture to the right, is the two cyinder Yanmar 2YM15, could not be moved forward, due to engine casing. See next picure: I have been dreaming of repowering with the 3YM20, so I found this to be very interesting, but I'm not sure if we will actually one day spend the extra money for the larger engine. best regards Jesper Milling The MS(B?) gearbox attached to the MD6a engine in my #42 Ballad died. I desperately need a source for parts or perhaps a spare gearbox. Any info or leads would be greatly appreciated. If I cant fix or replace the gearbox, does anyone have recommendations what I should do? I dont have the wallet to drop a whole other engine into the boat. Thanks Jeremy Has anyone tried to remove their propeller shaft? The key way on mine is messed up and the propeller is not seating properly. I would like to maneuver it out past the skeg if possible and take it into the shop. Does anyone know if it can be done? Kind Regards, Tony Allport Pleiades, #191 Merry Christmas to all. Has anyone installed either a feathering or folding prop on their Ballad? I'd appreciate any advice/comments. Nicholas "Moments of Clarity" #334 I have some kind of sending device on my MD6A that does not show up on the diagram in the owner's manual. It is about the size of a spark plug only stubbier, it has two spade type electrical connections, and it is magnetic. It is mounted on the upper rear left side of the engine, in the side of a gear housing that is horizontaly in line with the shaft that you use to hand crank the engine. There is nothing on the instrument panel that corresponds to it and it has never been connected to anything since I have owned the boat. Does anyone who either has or remembers this engine know what I am talking about?
Sincerely,
Tony Allport
Pleiades #191
Anderson Island, WA
USA Greetings Balladers,
I would like to convert my engine from raw water cooling to fresh water. It is the original MD6A. I had it surveyed recently and found it to be in remarkably good shape, I am encouraged to take better care of it. Does anyone have pictures or descriptions of this kind of conversion. I am mainly concerned about where to mount the heat exchanger and resevoir.
Thank you,
Tony Allport It is time to do something about the exhaust system. This summer it was a small water leakage when motor was running hard. This week the boat was taken out the water for the winter period and I have to do something about it until next year. Everything in the installation is, I think, original in my Ballad from 1974. It was converted to fresh water cooling some 25 years ago and the MD6a is running fine. My intension is to change as little as possible. The exhaust system is the most simple one, without vacuum valves and other such things. It seems to be just a straight 75 mm (3") rubber tube (very thick) with some stainless parts close to the motor. Is there anybody out there, who have done this before? Do I have to change anything but the short rubber part close to the motor that is leaking. Is it adviced to install any additional parts, like a waterlock. Everything seems to have been running just fine for more than 30 years just as it is. I repowered my Ballad "Egila" nr 1391 this spring with a Nanni 3.75He 21hp diesel. My old Volvo md7a was leaking oil all over. The installation was done by a proffesional and was very stright forward. The new engine weights about 105 kg so if I want to stand up to the BODA rules I know I have to do something but regardless, she goes like a dream. Best regards /Magnus Eklind I have just re-launched "Ciao" with a new Yanmar 2YM15 fitted professionally. The boat is transformed under power. The old Volvo MD6A (1972) never seemed to have enough power to drive the boat in a seaway and would always smoke horrendously despite attention to fuel pump and injectors. Eventually it got to the stage that it appeared that I was the only person who could understand the Volvo's idiosynchratic behaviour on starting and this plus blown core plugs, broken decompressor and dodgy alternator forced my hand into making the decision. The new 2YM15 is quiet, smokeless, powerful and considerably lighter than the three cylinder Yanmar- seems a good choice - watch this space for further comments at the end of the season ! Total cost £6206 (inc VAT @17.50%) which includes hauling out and relaunching and two engine lifts- labour on engine mounts £822.50 ( a lot of fiddling around with fibreglass) and engineer's labour of (sic) £822.50- remainder cost of engine and ancillaries inc new prop and shaft + seal. Mark Bennett. Hi Do anyone know the expected life time for en diesel engine which runs in salt water with salt water cooling. I plann to by one which been sailing on the swedish westcoast kind regars krister I have a 19 hp Volvo 2002. I have noticed that a screw on the bottom of the housing for the impeller is dripping salt water. Does any one know the function of that screw? Hi, I bought a Ballad last spring and spent six wonderful weeks cruising New England waters with my family of four. Now that the boat is laid up for the winter I am trying to fix things that bothered me over the summer. The fuel stop to kill the engine on my boat consists of a wire twisted onto the fuel pump, running up through a hole in the aft half of the engine box where it connects to a light nylon line running through the cockpit side next to the instrument panel. It works; but it also seems totaly jury rigged. Are all Ballads like this? My MD7A is blowing some white smoke. I also see some fuel in the water from my exhaust. Im thinking the valves may need adj and I did try but was a little hesitant because what the manual said and what I saw was a little different. Can anyone give me a few tips on adj. valves.
Thanks Gary Hi, I have a 1973 Albin Ballad that has been repowered with a fresh water cooled MD7A of 1981 vintage. Unfortunately the shaft seal has deteriorated and corroded to the point that it must be replaced. I would like to replace it with one of the new packless shaft seals from PYI inc. Has anyone done this on their Ballad and if so, what are the dimensions for the prop shaft diameter and the stern tube diameter? I removed the old Volvo MD6A two years ago and replaced it with a Betamarine BZ482 (13.5 hp). The repower gave me the opportunity to put in new technology, like removing the old steel/copper pipe exhaust system and replacing it with a Vernalift muffler and wet exhaust, installing a Racor fuel filter, new three-blade propeller, and other enhancements. So far, I have only done routine maintenance and have been very pleased with the engine. The Betamarine is built on a Kubota block and I hear it is the top-selling auxilliary replacement engine in the UK. I decided to go with it because it was lighter than a Yanmar and about $2500 less for what I think (after taking Yanmar classes) is a better engine. Dear all,
I'm looking for some who has the same or similar engine/propeller setup. A new engine is installed in our Ballad, but on 2200 rpm we feel and hear a lot of vibrations.
The engine is a Yanmar 2gm20 and the propeller is a 2 blade Flexofold (15' x 11')
Who has the same setup and can give me information that helps solving the issue.
Kind regards
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